Bayeux

I’ve decided that traveling without my better half isn’t nearly as much fun as it is with her. Oh, don’t get me wrong. It’s not that she wouldn’t’ve gone with me to Omaha Beach; it’s just that she would rather not. I get that part. And, I might as well clarify one other point: when I contracted food poisoning on my second full day (I’m blaming the ice cubes I ordered at dinner the night before—can’t ever tell what’s in the water!) I sure coulda used my personal nursemaid of 39 years to hold my hand. I settled for a long-distance consultation via Skype and about 19 hours in bed!

Notre Dame Cathedral, Bayeux, western facade, at night

No, it’s not that. I miss Gwaz because I know how much she would have loved Bayeux. Bayeux is medieval. Some of the structures including the Notre Dame Cathedral of Bayeux are over 1000 years old. Bayeux was the home base of William the Conqueror; and it is from there he launched his fabled conquest of England in 1066. Bayeux is a living museum. It is the only town left virtually unscathed by either side during WWII, which is a modern miracle in and of itself. (Consider, for example, that towns like Caen and St. Lo were literally reduced to rubble by allied bombers during the breakout from the Normandy beaches, and the repeated German protocol of destroying any abandoned properties, and the fact the Bayeux was not attacked is astounding.)

The cathedral chevet, considered a masterpiece of Norman Gothic art

Bayeux’s Notre Dame Cathedral is one of the most remarkable buildings—anywhere. I mean that. It is jaw-droppingly beautiful from every angle. Perhaps the contributions of countless architects, designers, benefactors, and holy men account for the awesome beauty of the cathedral. It stands on the ancient site of a Romanesque church, and as it looks today, the cathedral was begun in the early 13^th century. It reached its present day appearance in the 19^th century.

It is hard to decide which aspects of the cathedral are the most stunning. Certainly the central tower (15^th-19^th centuries) is the most easily identifiable. It can be seen from many miles away, which, of course, is its purpose. The western façade with its five gothic porches is a study in metaphor. A little research goes a long way in understanding the symbolism depicted on the exterior. From the passion of Christ to the gates of Hell guarded by the Devil himself, from the last supper to the dead rising from their graves to meet their reward, the western façade is amazingly complex.

The view from the nave

The interior is no less dramatic. For me, nothing compared to the majesty of the pulpit dating from 1786, designed by Bayeux sculptor Jean-Louis Mangin. The symbolism is easy to comprehend, the imagination it takes to conceive and construct such a masterwork is not.

The pulpit

This is one of the parts Gwaz would have liked the most. Yep, traveling with her is whole lot more fun.

I couldn't help but consider how many hands it took to wear down this marble holywater bowl this much. (About 1000 years worth!)