Bruges

Question: Outside of Italy, where can you see an honest-to-goodness Michelangelo?

Answer: Bruges, Belgium.

Madonna and Child, Michelangelo (circa 1504)

Bruges is like vintage clothes. You liked them too much to get rid of them, and when you rediscovered them tucked neatly away where they’ve always been, you couldn’t be happier. In some ways, Bruges is like that…a forgotten treasure.

Markt (Market Square) bell tower

By the 14^th century, Bruges’s population was as large as London’s (about 35,000). Because of its location and a suitable harbor, Bruges became one of the wealthiest cities in the world, specializing in imported cloth. Commerce and art flourished in the 15^th century (thanks, in large part, to France and England occupying each other at war.)

The old (and the new)

By the 16^th century the economy collapsed thanks mostly to the build up of silt in the harbor making it unsuitable for shipping, which promptly shifted to Antwerp and eventually to Amsterdam further north. Today, the evidence of its golden era is everywhere. Bruges is truly a rediscovered treasure (judging by the huge numbers of tourists!) Oh, and yes, it’s true; Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child stare forlornly from their perch in the Church of Our Lady.

Waiting at Antwerp Central

After two long train rides and one missed connection, I found this treasure right where it has always been.