Haarlem

References to “Haarlo-heim” date from the 10^th century. Located on a thin strip of land known as “strand wal” (beach ridge), historically the people of Haarlem have survived a precarious existence caught between the IJ (bay) and the Haarlem Lake (long since drained and the land reclaimed). Located on the river Spaarne only 20 km from Amsterdam, Haarlem is a beautiful town of approximately 150, 000 people.

View of the Grote Kerk

For quite a while Haarlem has been the center of the tulip bulb district, thus its nickname “het Bloemenstad” (the flower city). Once the home of artists and entrepreneurs, the wealth of the Golden Age eventually transferred to Amsterdam, but evidence of its rich heritage exists today.

Nowadays, the Frans Hals Museum

Haarlem’s history is a tale of survival. The 14^th century was no friend to Haarlem as devastating fires in 1328 and 1347 destroyed the city. In 1381 approximately 5000 people (about one-half the population) fell victim to the Black Death, which plagued all of Europe. Once one of the richest cities in Holland, Haarlem was often the target of invaders. In the 15^th century, Haarlem was besieged by the Flemish and again burned to the ground. In 1572 the Spanish took their turn. Details of the Spanish siege include savage murder, beheadings, and drownings. In 1576 fire again destroyed the city after a brewery fire grew out of control.

Canals and bicycles--imagine that!

The loss of industry and prestige to its famous neighbor has done little to diminish Haarlem’s proud heritage, as it remains a popular tourist destination.

In the Netherlands, Ascension Day—the celebration of Christ’s ascension to heaven following his crucifixion and resurrection—was celebrated 17 May. School was closed; and except for restaurants and gift shops, so was nearly everything else. My plan changed dramatically as I had looked forward to visits to the Ten Boom House and the Grote Kerk (large church). Both were closed. (How can a church be closed on Ascension Day? Isn’t that when it should be open?) Looks like there is a return trip to Haarlem in my near future.