Delft

Delft is old. Founded in 1246, Delft wears its age around every corner.

After my finger-smashing fiasco as I began my day, anything would have been an improvement. A bus ride and two train rides including a transfer in Den Haag provided plenty of time for my finger to stop throbbing. (Do I sound whinny? Try letting someone squeeze your finger tip in a pair of vice grips until you want to claw his face, and you’ll appreciate how my day started.)

The Nieuwe Kerk Bell Tower

From the train station in Delft, it is easy to see the majestic bell tower of the Nieuwe Kerk in the town square. Because of some construction, my route was a bit circuitous, but I knew my day had improved when I heard You are My Sunshine playing on the church bells!

Narrow and seemingly infinite!

The New Church was begun in 1396 and 100 years later it was completed. It is a beauty. Maybe that was what clouded my judgment long enough to pay for a combination ticket: see the church and climb the tower. The word “narrow” just doesn’t quite describe the spiral staircase. “Death-defying” is closer. On several occasions I was forced to hug the center post as some poor soul traveling in the opposite direction quite literally smashed against the wall to somehow squeeze by. (I thought of it as a great way to make friends.) By the time I reached the second observation level, I had had enough. Coming down was far less strenuous but no less difficult.

The view from way up...

I found one of my intended destinations, the Vermeer Center, quite by accident. While making my way towards the vendors’ tents in the street market, lo and behold I found the Vermeer Center. They hesitate to call it a museum because they do not own any original works by the master. Before I paid my money, I asked what I could expect. On the lowest floor photo exhibits of all 36 paintings, in the original sizes (which for me was one of the most interesting aspects. I sometimes wonder why artists use certain size canvases.) The first floor (the one above the ground floor) was all about the use of light and Vermeer’s studio. The second floor contained a really interesting expose of the symbolism in Vermeer’s paintings. (Hey, if you’re gonna be a genius, might as well make sure it shows!)

Can you see what Vermeer saw?

Back on the street I explored the “junktique” market. I found everything from antique record players to antique Dutch guys trying to sell them. Completely at odds with my reputation, I kept my euros in my pocket—didn’t want to carry anything else!

Antiques or junktiques?

Lunch was the highlight. My waitress used her best high school English to describe the menu items, which, unlike tourist-driven Amsterdam, was in Dutch. What I got—halve bol met vier soorten kaas et tomatensoep—was fabulous (half loaf of bread with four kinds of cheese and tomato soup). 

Add in twee bier and life is good!