Church of Our Lady

In Bruges, Belgium the map I was using was perfect as a tour book illustration, but it left a little to be desired for actually finding anything easily. No worries; I wandered. That’s what I enjoy mostly anyway.

Market Square

First on my list was the Church of Our Lady to see Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. After a few decisions that belong under the heading: Let’s See Other Stuff While We’re Walking, I found it. As it turns out, it’s the tallest building in the neighborhood and the second tallest brick building in the world! (...and I was having trouble finding it; what's that tell you?) My problem (in addition to the map) was I couldn’t find a sign confirming that I was, in fact, at the right church. I did what every tourist does…I stood in line hoping I wasn’t wasting my time. Seriously, the signage on the entrance said: Bruggemuseum. (Brugge is the Flemish spelling of Bruges.) How was I to know? Based on the size of the crowd trying to get in, I kinda figured.

The Church of Our Lady

It didn’t disappoint. Madonna and Child is ineffable. My research revealed that Madonna and Child was the only piece created by Michelangelo to leave Italy in his lifetime. Originally commissioned by Cardinal Francesco Piccolomini as an altar piece, the work was sold to Jan de Moscron, who donated it in 1514 to the Church of Our Lady.

Madonna and Child, Michelangelo 1504

Madonna and Child is all but overshadowed by the ostentatious altar that surrounds it. Smaller than life-size, the statue was probably designed to be viewed a different angle than its current perch. It is not hard to appreciate the genius of this little piece, but make no mistake; tourists are kept well back from it (and it is protected from who-knows-what by plexiglass.)

A fitting home?

I read that Michelangelo created Madonna and Child at the same time he created David. I also learned that the way the statue was polished is an indication that the artist was highly satisfied with the work. (Does that mean he didn’t polish the ones he didn’t like? Wait, there were ones he didn’t like?)

For me, Madonna and Child made nearly ten hours on trains all worth it. It is startlingly beautiful. (Maybe just because I very much appreciate the opportunity to see the work of Michelangelo.) Maybe it's the way Madonna and Child conveys emotion. I wish you could see the hands. Captured precisely as a child would search for the comfort of his mother’s hand, the hands are alive in marble.

The rest of the church really is a museum. I can’t tell you much about the art displayed throughout the church, but I can tell you there is a ton of it. From statuary to paintings to the tombs of Mary of Burgundy and her father, Charles the Bold, the Church of Our Lady created for me life-long memories.

Charles the Bold (1433-1477) and his daughter, Mary of Burgundy (1457-1482)